And at the bottom right is a Live View/Movie toggle switch with a Live View button to initiate it. I find it as uncomfortable to use on this camera as every other Nikon that uses it. The camera also has the same lockable multicontroller with center OK button as the D610. That's how it works on the D810, but that camera has separate AE-L and AF-L buttons so it's not as big an issue. Unfortunately, if you reassign that button - I like to make it AE-L only - then you lose the ability to focus via the shutter button.
There's one big issue here: you have the ability to program the function of the button as well as to assign the AF-L function to another button on the camera, just like you can on higher-end models like the D810. A combo AE-L/AF-L button is reachable via your right thumb. Sarah Tew/CNETĭon't confuse the i button with the info button on the right, a non-interactive view of all the current settings. The single-point autofocus mode is quite accurate and quick. (Your mileage may vary depending upon your personal shooting quirks, of course.) I do miss an option for expanded-point AF, though, which essentially uses a single focus point and only expands to a group of points for support. It manages about 10 raw+JPEG shots before slowing a lot.Įqually important, the autofocus seems reasonably able to keep up with the continuous shooting my hit rate of usable shots using the new Group AF was significantly better than Nikon's various tracking options, partly because in those modes you have no real control over the actual focus points it uses. After that it drops, though to a still-respectable 4.6fps. While raw burst flies at an even faster 7fps, that's only for about 15 shots. That sets a new high for its price class. It bursts about 6.6fps for highest-quality JPEGs (not even the default of Normal quality) with a buffer well beyond my 30 test shots - I got bored after 70. The camera excels when it comes to continuous-shooting performance, however. Both raw and JPEG take about 0.2-second between consecutive shots. And while I didn't time it, focus down to -1 EV was is sufficiently fast and accurate as well. In both bright and dim conditions (down to about 3 EV), time to focus and shoot runs just under 0.4-second actual speed is a bit faster than that, since the kit lens tends to drive a little slowly. Single-shot performance is roughly what you'd expect for the money. Even then the bottleneck is the power switch, since you have to turn it on and press the shutter with the same finger. It takes less than 0.2-second to power on, focus and shoot.
I suggest switching from the default Picture Control for shooting video, though, unless you like your blacks crushed and your whites blown, even in good light.
Nevertheless, best quality video looks sharp, with few visible artifacts, and up to ISO 3200 there's practically no noise sparkle.
Movie quality looks great, even in low light, though as with the stills you start to lose tonal range about ISO 3200. However, I was happy with the JPEGs as high as ISO 6400 - though that's dependent upon lighting and scene content - and had ISO 12800 raw files that I could work with comfortably. There's also a slight color shift between ISO 50 (Low) and ISO 100. Dynamic range displays visible decreases around ISO 3200 as well, with some clipping in low-key areas and loss of tonal distinctions in high-key areas. At ISO 3200, you can start to see some mushiness develop in the focused areas, and noise-reduction artifacts appear in the out-of-focus areas. JPEGs from the D750 look exceptionally clean up through ISO 1600, where a tiny bit of detail degradation begins in the in-focus areas.